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August 20, 2024

Chris' 5 Best Boulder Problems 45 minutes from Freeklime York

1) Matterhorn Arete (5/V0)

Matterhorn arete is arguably the most photogenic climb at Almcliff, the jewel in the crown of Yorkshire Grit. 5 metres tall, this one will get the heart pumping, but luckily it's climbed via large handholds from bottom to top!

Matterhorn Arete (Source: TedT UKClimbing.com)

2) Whisky Galore (7A/V6)

Whisky Galore is a faint groove at Brimham Rocks, near Pateley Bridge (okay, I know we're pushing 45 minutes to get to this one...). It's an absolute classic of the grade and one of the most sought after ticks at the grade in Yorkshire. It's worth noting that the climb does suffer from seepage in winter so it's best climbed in Spring or after a dry spell.

Whisky Galore (7A/V6)

3) Boris or Bust (6C/V5)

Boris or Bust is also located at a crag on Brimham Moor and can be found on UKC under 'Little Brimham'. This is the crag you see on the left as you approach Brimham Rocks from Summerbridge. Boris or Bust is a tall 4.5 metre arete and must be climbed with perfect guppies (technique seen below) to a scary last move to a proper 'thank god' jug!

Boris or Bust (6C/V5)

4) Flying Arete (6B/V4)

Flying arete is a beautifully featured arete climb at Almsclif crag. The features are just good enough for the hands, with largely unhelpful feet. Watch out for that top rockover as the landing slopes away some 4 metres beneath you!

Flying arete (V4/6B)

5) Mr Smooth (6A/V3)

The best rockover on gritstone? This 3 star hidden gem is located at Caley Crags in West Yorkshire. This is one of those problems which is easy when you know how and desperate beyond belief when you don't.

A Bonus Boulder: Hunters Roof (7C/V9)

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